27 Kommentare

  1. aValance 01.06.2014 at 20:45 |

    Klasse Anlei­tung 🙂 kann OSD emp­feh­len, vor­al­lem wenn die Kamera für FPV an einem Gimbal hängt

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  2. Ludovic 06.06.2014 at 13:06 |

    Hello,
    I wonder if the son is 2 x 2 video output and video input!
    Have you wiring diagram Mini­mOSD to DEVO‑M!
    thank you for your site

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  3. Uwe 02.10.2014 at 18:22 |

    Noch ein Nach­trag: Wenn kein Video­si­gnal gesen­det werden soll, die Stift­leis­te nicht ver­wen­den, die Ver­bin­dung getrennt lassen.
    Die Kamera funk­tio­niert dennoch!

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    1. Snake 25.03.2015 at 01:22 |

      Sieht bei meiner Ilook+ alles kom­plett anders aus, habe nur 3 lei­tun­gen die in den sender gehen und am Came­ra­mo­dul einen 6 poligen Stecker. Die kabel­far­ben schei­nen noch über­ein­zu­stim­men. Habe einfach das blau und das gelbe kabel im Kabel­baum gekappt, zum mini­mosd und zurück­ge­führt, Kamera sendet noch Bilder wenn das OSD aus ist, sobald das aber Strom bekommt ist das Bild weg. Keine Ahnung warum bin völlig Ratlos.
      Die Ilook+ funk­tio­niert ohne OSD und 2 „old­scool jumpern” immer­noch wie gehabt. Gehe mal davon aus das mein OSD Schrott ist, was man so liest sind die Dinger ent­we­der von Werk aus im Eimer oder von so mieser Qua­li­tät das man ein paar ver­heit­zt bevors funk­tio­niert.

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  4. Pedro 22.10.2014 at 17:29 |

    Hi ever­y­bo­dy.
    Thank you, Gektor, for this good and useful mod but I’m sorry to be a little con­fu­sed with this.
    On the top pics from the camera module, in the ori­gi­nal wiring, we see 6 wires.
    On the „AV-out on the camera module accord­ing Umnbau (back)” we only see 2 wires and it’s very difi­cult to see if is the red wire remain or not.
    What hap­pen­de to the red, yellow (audio), white and grey wires ?
    On this mod the red wire remains on camera and tx modules ?
    Thank you in advance for your comments.

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  5. Uwe 22.10.2014 at 18:07 |

    Hi Pedro, let me give the answer for I did it …
    There are still 6 wires remai­ning, no changes!
    The idea/solution is to cut inside the iLook only the two wires „AV” and „-” (bue and black, leading from camera modul to the TX) and bring them out of the box.

    That means: „AV” and „-” from the camera modul out of the box and „AV” and „-” back into the box con­nec­ted with the TX.
    All the outher wires are untouched!

    Hope it helps … other­wi­se I prepare a drawing.

    Antworten
  6. Pedro 22.10.2014 at 18:22 |

    Thank you so much for so quicly reply and that helped me.
    I did this mod on my iLook but some pro­blems hap­pen­ed because I recei­ved the video signal but on Devo F7 the stock infor­ma­ti­on as model nr, the bottom values of throtle, etc, the voltage of the F7 are acting like crazys on the screen blin­king in several places on the video.
    This is without OSD con­nec­ted, only the 2 wires con­nec­ted them­s­elf. I don’t find the motif and I veri­fied a small break on the video quality.
    I didn’t solder the wires direc­t­ly but cutted on the middle between camera and ts modules.
    Then I solder long wires from there to the exte­rior:
    – from cam module : blue on blue and black on black
    – on tx : blue to blue and black to black (I iden­ti­fied each wire with IN and OUT).
    I could change the colors but I pre­fe­red labe­ling the wires to avoid mista­kes.
    I have to dis­as­sem­ble again the iLook and verify what is going on, Pehraps should be better to solder the wires direc­t­ly than solder wire to wire.
    Thank you. Regards

    Antworten
  7. Pedro 22.10.2014 at 18:33 |

    One more thing :

    the iLook works at 12v by a lateral JST con­nec­tor coming from the QR.
    As we are not taking from there the 12v needed for the OSD, the 12v for the OSD is from the QR ?
    I veri­fied one thing : only the 2 wires (video and ground) from and to the iLook con­nec­ted to the 4 points on the analog side of OSD.
    Only works if we inject 12v on the 12v IN pin.

    Antworten
    1. Uwe 22.10.2014 at 18:47 |

      So far as I unders­tood:
      There are dif­fe­rent power­sup­ply for iLook and OSD? In this case you should connect the ground to both accus outher­wi­se it can‚t work.

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  8. Uwe 22.10.2014 at 18:34 |

    Wire to wire is not a problem, don‚t forget to isolate the sol­de­ring.
    Sol­de­ring direc­t­ly on the PCB is a litte bit „tricky” for the sol­de­ring points are very narrow.
    Good luck, it works!

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  9. Pedro 25.10.2014 at 23:08 |

    Hi !
    Thank you Gektor and Uwe.
    I didn’t sol­de­red direc­t­ly, I cutted the wires and sol­de­red exten­si­ons in both ways and add a small tube shrin­ked in each one.
    I have full details on OSD and and cor­rec­ted the voltage also.
    Could be the Devi F7 but I didn’t have vídeo from the iLook, only OSD.
    I inputed 12v from a extra 12v point from the board (extra 3 12v con­nec­tions) on the analog side of the Mavlink OSD on IN but no out wire I have because the cam as self powered. I think this is not the motif I don’t have vídeo.
    Monday I receive my Boscam monitor and I’ll see that.
    Regards

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  10. Uwe 25.10.2014 at 23:55 |

    Try one thing: Connect (only) all „-” wires tog­e­ther for if there is a second power supply the video needs another poten­ti­al. Only minus (ground) … Ground from your 12V supply and ground from the exter­nal power­sup­ply of your cam.
    Outher­wi­se it can‚t work.
    Hope it works …

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    1. Uwe 25.10.2014 at 23:56 |

      Unfor­tu­nal­ly I can‚t send a drawing … sorry!

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  11. Pedro 27.10.2014 at 13:40 |

    Thank you, Uwe ! No drawing is needed.
    Today I’ll solder a ground wire at side of the 12v con­nec­tion and will connect to pin „-” on IN at analog out section.
    The 2 black wires ground from and to camera (one caming out from cam modulo and other to the tx module I’ll connect tog­e­ther as it was before I cutted the wires and made the exten­si­ons.
    On this sce­n­a­rio we have the self powered cam with their own „+” and „-” and the OSD with a
    „+” and „-” from the QR inde­pendents from cam.
    In last chance I’ll cutt the red wire of power from cam to tx module and do the same thing I made to
    the other 2 wires black and blue.
    The problem would be that OSD will have the analog part powered by cam.
    I’ll do a try tonight.

    Thank you. Regards

    Antworten
  12. Uwe 27.10.2014 at 14:12 |

    Pedro,
    now there is a drawing added by „Gektor”. That is the way I did it – and it works perfect.
    If there is an own power­sup­ply inside the cam you need only black and blue, no red!

    Antworten
    1. Pedro 27.10.2014 at 18:38 |

      OK I already seen that drawing but if I made like that and I don’t receive OSD.
      Only inpu­ting 12v on the IN pin. And no OUT 12 v pin.
      With such con­fi­gu­ra­ti­on you get only one fla­shing red led but it must 2 red leds to works OK.
      I don’t know ! Perhaps I made some­thing wrong but if we are talking of cutting the signal of
      video and ground between camera and tx modules and bring them to the outside to be con­nec­ted on Mavlink OSD (IN for 2 wires from cam and 2 wires OUT to the TX module) that’s what is made on my case.
      Beside that sketch, if you say taht works well, what you have on the side of OSD analog pins ?
      And about 12v IN/OUT pins on analog side of OSD ? Do you have con­nec­tions ???

      Antworten
    2. Pedro 27.10.2014 at 18:38 |

      OK I already saw that drawing but if I made like that and I don’t receive OSD.
      Only inpu­ting 12v on the IN pin. And no OUT 12 v pin.
      With such con­fi­gu­ra­ti­on you get only one fla­shing red led but it must 2 red leds to works OK.
      I don’t know ! Perhaps I made some­thing wrong but if we are talking of cutting the signal of
      video and ground between camera and tx modules and bring them to the outside to be con­nec­ted on Mavlink OSD (IN for 2 wires from cam and 2 wires OUT to the TX module) that’s what is made on my case.
      Beside that sketch, if you say taht works well, what you have on the side of OSD analog pins ?
      And about 12v IN/OUT pins on analog side of OSD ? Do you have con­nec­tions ???

      Antworten
  13. Uwe 27.10.2014 at 19:11 |

    http://www.droneshop.com/osd/mavlink-osd-p-69742.html

    Here I found a sketch about con­nec­ting the modul with cam and TX.
    In this picture there are cam, TX and the OSD-modul sup­plied by only one Lipo (3S).
    If your cam has its own accu try to cut only the +12V in, the red wire leading to the cam.

    Btw: My OSD modul is another (Tiny Mini OSD)

    Antworten
  14. sleat 02.11.2014 at 14:34 |

    Ha,

    Walkera con­sis­ten­cy! With mine, 3 wires into the video TX are white (-), Red AV, and last, top wire in your „TX 5803 in the ilook in the ori­gi­nal” photo is green.

    That wire is inte­res­ting. It is _almost_ at ground poten­ti­al, on the oscil­lo­scope except with about 14k resis­tan­ce to ground. I wonder what the green wire does.

    The video signal has about 37(!) ohms resis­tan­ce to ground with the device off.

    In order to make the mod as robust and fle­xi­ble as pos­si­ble, I sol­de­red two pin-strips tog­e­ther to make two 3 con­duc­tor male servo plugs. I seated the strips into the case slot that I cut, with the pins poin­ting inwards and out­wards. On the inter­nals, I used a servo lead to splice on to the video signal. On the outside,

    This means ever­ything can be safely unplug­ged at any time, and nothing to break off, or chafe and short.

    When not using the OSD or exter­nal trans­mit­ter, or both, one can simply put an old school jumper plug on to connect video in and video out on the 3 pin plug.

    Regards,
    Joe

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    1. jean-pierre 10.11.2014 at 11:41 |

      Hallo Sleat,
      Could you please mail a picture of how you made this robust con­nec­tion. I would like to add a camera swit­cher so i can switch between the fixed fpv camera ( look) de gimbal camera (Mobius). Is there a channel on the devo F7 that can do so ?
      gree­tings from Belgium.
      Jean-Pierre

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      1. Joe 05.01.2015 at 08:14 |

        I have a few photos of the iLook+ video out/in/ground plug. But how to post them?

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      2. Joe 10.04.2015 at 13:41 |

        OK, finally got time to re-dis­as­sem­ble the unit (it’s very fiddly and tight inside) and take a good photo.

        https://plus.google.com/photos/101698509493312794817/albums/6136069640843079937

        That should be suf­fi­ci­ent for you to dupli­ca­te my setup!

        Let me know if you have any ques­ti­ons.

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  15. Alex 04.01.2015 at 15:56 |

    Hi all,

    I find this website very usefull, shame it’s in german but the google trans­la­tor does it job.

    I did the ilook+ mod with the minim osd module. I uploa­ded the latest minim osd extra firm­ware and tuned the pannel like i wanted.

    When i start the copter. The osd data glit­ches a bit but still read­a­ble. Once the motors starts spin­ning the telem­try dis­s­apears almost com­ple­te­ly. Any idea what can resolve this issue ?

    Gree­tings Alex

    Antworten
    1. Joe 05.01.2015 at 08:11 |

      How are you powering the Mini­mOSD?

      I power mine on the 5V side from the „data port”.

      This is pro­bab­ly not the best idea, as I’m not sure what the design loads are meant to be for this port, but a 5V BEC could easily be incor­po­ra­ted for the 5V (3DR Radio and Mini­mOSD) parts.

      The 12V side of the Mini­mOSD is powered by the 12V „acces­so­ry jacks” under the TALI H500 body, which are self-locking molex plugs, I believe.

      There is some evi­dence that powering my access­ories with 5V from the data port may affect the compass, not in a direct magne­tic way, but in a „voltage droop/noise” way.

      I plan to power my 3DR radio and compass (and gear servos) from a „nones­sen­ti­al DC buss” which I will make by running an addi­tio­nal hi-current 5V BEC off the main battery buss.

      Good design dic­ta­tes that abso­lute­ly nothing should be able to inter­rupt good voltage/current to the ESCs, FCS, and Recei­ver.

      I’d also add that when cali­bra­ting the system magne­ti­cal­ly, best prac­tice would be to disable ALL the addon access­ories like 3DR Radios and Mini­mOSD, maybe even the gimbal. In other words, the compass/radio/gps/fcs com­pu­ter stack should have the best pos­si­ble noise free voltage and current.

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  16. panos 09.04.2015 at 12:21 |

    In the iLook+ camera has 3 wires (red-white-green up) and 2 ( yellow-black bottom), going from cam to the trans­mit­ter.
    Which of these cables must connect, to send images to an exter­nal trans­mit­ter, like the immer­si­onrc 600mw 5.8ghz?

    i have 3 photo …

    http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/kafeneio-megalopolis/DRONES/ILOOK/1_zpsgiehgkub.jpg

    http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/kafeneio-megalopolis/DRONES/ILOOK/2_zpsdniyuzj7.jpg

    http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/kafeneio-megalopolis/DRONES/ILOOK/3_zps3kdjvvgy.jpg

    Antworten
    1. Joe 10.04.2015 at 13:38 |

      Hi Panos,

      The colors do vary, unfor­tu­n­a­te­ly, from camera to camera.

      Have a look at this image:
      https://plus.google.com/photos/101698509493312794817/albums/6136069640843079937

      You can see, on the left, the nearest wire is orange, video „in” from the outside world to the iLook+ inbuilt trans­mit­ter. This can be any video source!

      The next wire (red) is „out” which is the video the iLook+ is cap­tu­ring, or seeing.
      The fur­thest wire (brown) is „earth”. I sol­de­red it to the trans­mit­ter case.

      So, to answer your ques­ti­on, and assuming your wires are the same colour as mine (Walkera changes some­ti­mes) looking at the trans­mit­ter body in the photo, it looks like the middle wire which _was_ the red one in the photo, goes from the camera unit to the trans­mit­ter, and sends the video to the outside world.

      That wire, plus an „earth” con­nec­tion (where I used a wire to the trans­mit­ter case shield) should give you rea­son­ab­le video. It does for me, as my exter­nal con­nec­tor passes through the mini­mOSD and back to the trans­mit­ter inside the unit.

      Feel free to dupli­ca­te my setup, it took about 2 hours to build, since the most part was dril­ling and filing a proper hole in the back of the unit, in the right place, and moun­ting an insu­la­ted (the case is very con­duc­tive!) gland made of epoxy to hold the fingers secu­re­ly. With that setup, you can simply plug servo con­nec­tors in on both sides for con­ve­ni­en­ce!

      For „normal” ope­ra­ti­on, I use an old PC „jumper” con­nec­tor to connect video-out to video-in, and when using mini­mOSD, I bring the video out through that unit and back into the back of the iLook+.

      Antworten
  17. woody 23.12.2017 at 15:10 |

    Big thanks to Joe – did the mod as he pro­po­sed – and it works very nicely right from the start: no problem at all.

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